We drive south from Santiago to stay in a Parador. Monastertio de Santo Estevo, in the hills above Ourense, is a medieval Monastery that later became a School of the Arts and is now a Parador, a state owned hotel. The contemporary architectural restoration has been beautifully realised, it saves the mood of the old building but adds the necessary glazing and comforts, including thick pile grey carpets in the corridors, to make it habitable today.

One feature is a vast chimney room where the central chimney extends three floors high. The dining room is also on a monumental scale. It is all rather overbearing.

In the central courtyard the ancient grey stone is enlivened with a bright magenta rhododendron.This is the only spot of colour allowed apart from the plastic flowers in the grounds of the little cemetery.

The chapel contains some contemporary additions to the baroque Sculptures; the Madonna presides over a plastic fishing boat and the Pilgrim is carrying a waxy, severed head.

Next day we meet Estevo, a very friendly Alsatian dog, in the chapel.

Estevo accompanies us on our morning walk through wiggly paths strewn with fallen trees, and crossing over little rivulets. We pass many deserted houses awaiting discovery.